In this page I'll attempt to explain how I paint Landsknechts - do feel free to ask any questions by commenting and I'll try my best to answer them.
This method might seem a bit long winded but it's something which for me has evolved and I find it gives consistently good results. Once you get used to it doesn't take that long. These two figures took me around 3 hours for the pair.
You can read more on the palette I use via the dedicated page on the right.
Lets get started.
First choose the figures that you wish to paint, I have used some figures from Warlord Games and very good they are too; they have really crisp moulds and the dedication into their research really shows in the sculpting topped with very characterful expressions. I think these will go far and I'm hoping to see their burgeoning range expand in the future but for now they work well on their own and also mix easily with the Perry sculpted Wargames Foundry Landsknechts.
Prepare the figures by cleaning them up using a scalpel and needle files; carefully trim or file away any flash and mould lines leftover from the casting process then glue each of the figures to a rubberised cork (I use PVA, dried overnight). The cork will give you something to grip quite easily whilst minimising any strain on your hands. Old paint pots also work quite well too.
Once the glue has dried fully undercoat each figure black, paying particular attention to any nooks and crannies.
A black undercoat will do you a lot of favours, and in my opinion is the best way to paint Landsknechts; it will give you a fine line between each colour and area which will in turn enhance the difference in colours prevalent with these mercenaries. I have tried painting from white and grey undercoats and the results are nowhere near as good.
When the undercoat has dried lightly dry brush any armour in the shade colour, Foundry chainmail in this instance.
Before moving on, decide how you want your figures to look; Have a browse of Pinterest or practice with the line drawn woodcuts to see what works and remember the basic rule of two to three main colours complemented with one or sometimes two further additional colours.
I have found that having at least two areas (such as the chest and arm) in the same colour anchors the figure quite well. Painting each area in a different colour looks gaudy and in most instances doesn't work.
Apply your colours from the inside out, as though the figure is being dressed is the best way I can describe it. Start with the flesh, then the shirt, doublet, arms and hose then move on to any ribbons and finally the belt, shoes, hat and plumes.
Try to be as neat as you can and leave a black line between each colour and in any predominant folds or creases.
In the case of any slashed areas, carefully paint the undershirt with a fine detail brush first then move on to the doublet or arm, this way you can overpaint any mistake without any worry. You may find it easier to do this after the wash.
For the striped areas paint them evenly and don't feel tempted to follow the slashes; In the right leg of each of these figures I have demonstrated one following the slashes and another not following slashes, they both give quite subtly different results. Try and leave a very fine black line between each stripe and don't worry if you get any paint on any ribbons as you can just re-undercoat them in black and paint them in the base colour last.
Still with the size 1 brush, apply the following wash to all non armoured / flesh parts of the figure;
For the Scarlet areas I now very sparingly apply a final highlight of Foundry Orange 3A;
We're almost finished now and the figures are ready for their respective weapons.
And that's it, here are the finished miniatures;